Month: February 2012

  • Labro, Italy

    Last fall I spent three weeks in Italy. My primary reason for going there was to attend Italian Burning Weekend and reconnect with friends I’d met at Nowhere that summer. While at IBW, I met a lovely woman named Jane. She was supposed to head home to Australia immediately after the weekend, but decided to stay for another week so that we could spend more time together.

    One of the highlights of the week was our visit to the comune and village of Labro, in northeastern Lazio near Umbria. We went there to visit friends who run the Art Monastery Project, a “non-profit arts organization dedicated to cultivating personal awakening and cultural transformation through art, community, and contemplation”. The Art Monastery is just across a small valley from the stunningly picturesque village of Labro.

    Labro.
    View of Labro from across the valley. (Photograph by Sascha Romeo, http://sascharomeo.blogspot.com/)

    Jane and I spent an afternoon wandering through the village, and enjoyed an excellent lunch at ArcoLuna, one of two delicious restaurants in this village of 370 people. The next evening, we returned with friends from the Art Monastery for dinner at Boccondivino, the other restaurant – which is directly across from the first! Outstanding food in both places, great wine, superb service.

    Labro is well worth an excursion if you’re in the region – a good escape from the hustle and bustle of Rome, great people to meet, fairytale-pretty streets to wander, and excellent food. Do it.

    (And if you make it to the Art Monastery, tell them Stuart says hello!)

    Looking over the rooftops of Labro to Lago di Piediluco.
    Looking over the rooftops of Labro to Lago di Piediluco.

     

    Lovely pedestrian streets.
    Lovely pedestrian streets.

     

    Lovely pedestrian streets, redux.
    Lovely pedestrian streets, redux.

     

    Grassy stairs.
    Grassy stairs.

     

    Comune di Labro (with the town's symbol, the cinghiale or wild boar).
    Comune di Labro (with the town's symbol, the cinghiale or wild boar).

     

    ArcoLuna
    ArcoLuna, where we enjoyed a most excellent lunch.

     

    A mouthful of wine (a mouthful of heaven).
    A mouthful of wine (a mouthful of heaven).

     

     

  • Marrakech Medina

    Marrakech Medina

    I spent last Monday wandering through the Medina with Thomas and Alison, a couple of friends from Seattle who are currently in Morocco for a few weeks. We explored the souks, toured the Ali Ben Youssef Medersa (the largest Islamic theological school in Morocco), and enjoyed “Scenes From Daily Life”, an exhibit of photographs of Moroccan history from the 1870s to 1950s at the Maison de la Photographie, one of the only photography museums in Morocco. There was also food and tea and sunshine-basking, as there should be.

    A few photographs from the day:

    One of many beautiful doorways in the Medina.
    One of many beautiful doorways in the Medina.

     

    Reflecting pool in the center of the Medersa.
    Reflecting pool in the center of the Medersa.

     

    Student's quarters.
    Student's quarters. On display are a desk for study, a small stove and everything needed to make tea and tagine.

     

    Decorative calligraphy.
    Many surfaces throughout the medersa are covered with ornate calligraphy depicting scenes from the Qur'an.

     

  • Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes

    “Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans.”
    – John Lennon, “Beautiful Boy (Darling Boy)”

    Those of my beloved readers who have been following my plans since the beginning know that my itinerary has changed several times along the way. My very first draft itinerary was to spend last summer in Scandinavia, fall in Western Europe, and this winter riding around the Mediterranean before heading off to cross Asia in the spring.

    Then I had a minor – okay, maybe moderate – health scare, forcing me to delay my departure by six weeks. Then the Arab Spring uprisings began, putting most of the Mahgreb (Islamic North Africa) except Morocco off-limits for all practical purposes – I like adventure, not needless risk. Then I decided to spend my birthday at the Nowhere Festival (Europe’s teeny-tiny Burning Man-style event in northern Spain in the middle of July), which meant jettisoning my plans for Scandinavia.

    Then, curiouser and curiouser things happened:

    First off, while at Nowhere I met a great band of like-minded freaks – much like my tribe in Seattle, but scattered far and wide, a European Burner Diaspora. Then I had to go and fall in love with Europe as a whole, and southern (Mediterranean) Europe in particular. Somewhere along the way, I realized that I was – at least on some small level – looking for a new place to live.

    And then, most curious of all … while sitting in the sun talking with friends one lovely afternoon at Italian Burning Weekend, I asked my friend Andrea if he could give me a job in his software company. After the merest pause, he said “yeah”. Over the intervening months, a slow conversation has continued between us, resulting in the latest new plan:

    Come March, I’ll be moving to Barcelona to live and work. Exactly what I’ll be doing there is still not entirely clear – but something in the software world. Maybe slinging code again, maybe a client account manager, maybe something else.

    This means that my plans to cross Asia are, at least for now, off the table. Asia isn’t going anywhere, and I’m pretty sure my love of motorcycle travel isn’t either, so perhaps this will happen at some later date. I hope so.

    It also means that I’m not planning to return to Seattle as my home. Maybe some day, for life is long and I have a most excellent tribe of chosen family and friends there. Sometimes it pains me to face this reality – Seattle was my home for 15 years, longer than anywhere else, and I miss my people there every day. I have people there I love so much I turn into a big mushy mess if I think about them for too long. I miss my comfortable knowledge of the place, my routines, my favorite coffee shops and bars and restaurants.

    This new reality isn’t carved in stone yet – there are still a few hoops to jump through – but it does represent my current course. Things could change – with me, that wouldn’t be such a tremendous surprise, I suspect. Logistical challenges to living abroad for an extended period may present themselves. I may decide that in truth I can’t bear being away from the place and people which have been my heart’s home for so many years. Events yet to transpire may force me to return to the States. However, that is all conjecture and tomorrows.

    To my friends and loved ones in Seattle and New York and San Francisco and throughout the U.S.: once I’m settled, please come visit. Barcelona is lovely! Europe is grand! Nowhere is waiting for your smiling dusty love! And most importantly, I miss you and would love to play in Europe with you.

    All of you: whether you’ve been completely supportive of me from the start, wrestled with conflicting emotions or laughed and thought “He’s crazy in the coconut! (That boy needs therapy)” – thank you. I mean that most sincerely: I couldn’t have made it this far without you. It’s been a wild ride, and it ain’t over until I’m gone. I don’t plan on that happening any time soon (touch wood), so stick around and enjoy the ride.